The return pump emptying the chamber it's in The amount of water you put in the system The water level in the sump is going to be dictated by a few things. The water level in the display is dictated by the height of the overflow weir in the tank. At the very least, open the valve ALL THE WAY and leave it that way permanently. "Not enough pump" will simply result in a lower flow rate – and the overflow box will deliver 100% of the pumped water back into the sump.īTW, wow this thread has a lot of confusing info about flow! A "lesser amount" of too much pump can make your drain very noisy instead of causing a flood.above 50% capacity, this tends to become a problem. For what it's worth, "too much pump" would either overflow the display OR empty the sump, whichever came first.no other flood outcome. Not possible.you can only have too much pump. Got to thinking about this and is it possible I don’t have enough pump? I mean if it can’t keep up with the drain wide open then that makes me lean towards the pump not having enough flow to keep up with the drain I prevented multiple floods with this simple float switch. Absolutely do not restrict your drain line ever and make sure you have a float switch in your DT that will shut off the return pump if the HOB overflow fails. OP - I ran an HOB overflow for 8 years and have experienced pretty much every failure mode. From there, you make adjustments to change your DT water level depending on the type of setup (drain valve for herbie/bean-animal, weir or standpipe height for single drain overflows, or box height for HOBs).įor an HOB, you should only be adjusting flow through the drain and sump by adjusting the flow through your return line with a valve - restricting the drain without a secondary open drain is a guarantee of a flood. When setting up a sump, you should pick your return pump to match what you want the flow rate through your sump to be at the given head height (typically 3-10x of DT turnover through the sump per hour). The other option is adding a bigger return pump, but this comes with it's own drawbacks since you will be increasing flow through the sump. For an HOB overflow, OP would need to use the water level adjustment screws and raise the entire HOB overflow up. However, for an HOB overflow (or any overflow without a backup), this is not the correct way to adjust the water level in the DT. If OP is reducing flow on the drain side, it will increase the water level in the DT. The strength of the return pump will definitely make a big difference in the water level of the display tank all other things being equal. The overflow in the display tank will always keep the water at the same height in the display, what ever water goes in from the return pump will then overflow down the drain, that's it, the water in the sump will quickly find its equilibrium. I really don't think the strength of the pump matters as long as it is getting the water up there.
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